Hardwood floor squeaking is one of the most common complaints we hear from homeowners—because it’s annoying, it feels “new,” and it raises a fair question: Is something moving that shouldn’t be? The good news is that squeaks are usually solvable once you understand what’s rubbing, shifting, or flexing underfoot. The key is identifying why it’s happening in your home before choosing a repair, especially in Los Angeles where varied home ages, slab-on-grade builds, and raised foundations can all play a role.
Below is a practical, inspection-focused guide to squeaky hardwood floors: what causes them, how to pinpoint the source, what fixes actually work, and when it’s time to bring in a flooring inspector.

What’s Actually Making the Squeak?

A squeak is almost always friction + movement. When you step on the floor, something flexes and two surfaces rub together. The “something” could be the hardwood itself, the subfloor, the fasteners, or the framing.
Here are the most common squeak mechanisms:
  • Wood-on-wood friction: A board edge rubs another board (or a loose tongue-and-groove joint) as the floor deflects.
  • Fastener movement: Nails or staples can slightly loosen over time. As the floor moves, the fastener shank rubs the wood fibers and “chirps.”
  • Subfloor-to-joist movement (raised foundations): If the subfloor isn’t tightly fastened to joists, stepping can cause the subfloor to lift and settle—often producing a squeak or pop.
  • Underlayment friction (floating/engineered systems): Some engineered floors are floated over foam or felt. If the underlayment compresses unevenly or seams overlap, movement can create squeaks.
  • Seasonal moisture changes: Wood expands when humidity rises and shrinks when it drops. That swelling/shrinking can increase pressure at joints or create micro-gaps that allow movement.
Important nuance: squeaks can occur in both solid hardwood and engineered hardwood, and they can show up even when the floor looks “perfect.”

Why Squeaks Are Common in Real Homes (Not Just “Bad Installation”)

It’s tempting to assume squeaks mean poor workmanship. Sometimes that’s true, but many squeaks are the result of normal building behavior.

Typical contributing factors

  • Normal structural deflection: Floors aren’t perfectly rigid. A little bounce is normal, but excess deflection can amplify squeaks.
  • Fastener schedule and placement: Too few fasteners, wrong length, or missed joists can lead to movement. Even correctly installed nails can loosen with time.
  • Subfloor thickness and condition: Thin subfloors (or older plank subfloors) can flex more. If a plywood subfloor has delaminated or has water staining, it may lose stiffness.
  • Humidity swings: Interior relative humidity (RH) changes cause hardwood to move. In coastal-to-inland microclimates, some Los Angeles homes see noticeable RH differences across seasons, especially if HVAC use changes.
  • Transitions and pinch points: If hardwood is installed too tight against walls or at transitions without adequate expansion space, boards can bind and then release with a squeak or snap.

The “where” matters

Squeaks tend to cluster:
  • Along high-traffic paths (kitchen routes, hallways)
  • Near doorways and transitions (where cuts and fasteners are concentrated)
  • Over framing changes (girder beams, joist splices, or areas with previous repairs)
A professional inspection focuses on pattern, not just the noise.

How to Diagnose a Squeaky Hardwood Floor (Homeowner-Friendly Steps)

You don’t need specialized tools to gather useful clues before scheduling a flooring inspection. Here’s a simple process that helps pinpoint the likely source.

1) Map the squeaks

Walk slowly and mark squeaky spots with painter’s tape. Note whether the squeak happens:
  • On heel strike vs. toe push-off
  • Only in one direction of travel
  • Only when stepping on a specific board edge
This can hint at whether it’s a board joint, a fastener, or subfloor movement.

2) Check if it’s localized or widespread

  • One or two spots: often a loose board, isolated fastener issue, or subfloor-to-joist gap.
  • Many spots across a room: could indicate broader subfloor movement, inadequate fastening, underlayment issues, or humidity-related changes.

3) Identify your floor system

If you can access below (crawlspace or basement), determine:
  • Raised foundation with joists/subfloor vs. slab-on-grade
  • Solid hardwood nailed/stapled vs. engineered glued, nailed, or floated
This matters because repair methods differ dramatically.

4) Look for moisture and environment clues

Squeaks that appeared after:
  • a plumbing event,
  • a wet-mop routine,
  • a new humidifier/dehumidifier,
  • HVAC changes,
  • or a rainy season
…may involve moisture-driven movement. In that case, treating the squeak without addressing moisture can lead to repeat issues (or worse problems like cupping).

5) Listen for “squeak” vs. “pop” vs. “creak”

  • High-pitched squeak: often fastener friction or tight board contact.
  • Pop/click: can indicate floating floor movement, expansion binding, or adhesive release.
  • Low creak: sometimes broader framing or subfloor flex.
A flooring inspector will correlate the sound with construction type, fastening method, and movement.

Repair Options: What Works, What’s Risky, and What’s a Temporary Band-Aid

Not all squeak fixes are equal. The best approach depends on whether the movement is in the hardwood, between hardwood and subfloor, or between subfloor and framing.

Option A: Refasten from below (best for raised foundations)

If you have a crawlspace and the squeak is subfloor-to-joist movement, a common professional solution is:
  • Add screws through the subfloor into joists (or add blocking)
  • Use construction adhesive at the joist/subfloor interface in targeted areas
  • Install wood shims carefully only where appropriate
Why “carefully”? Over-shimming can lift the subfloor and create new high spots or telegraphing. An inspection helps confirm where gaps exist and whether the framing is level.

Option B: Top-down fastening (controlled, spot-specific)

For nailed/stapled hardwood where a board is moving, pros may:
  • Face-nail and set a small finish nail in a discreet area (then fill)
  • Use trim-head screws in carefully selected locations (often near walls or under shoe molding)
These methods can be effective, but they require skill to avoid splitting boards, creating visible patches, or hitting radiant/utility lines (rare, but caution is warranted).

Option C: Engineered floating floor adjustments

If the floor is floated and squeaks are caused by underlayment friction, solutions may include:
  • Verifying expansion gaps at walls and transitions
  • Correcting pinch points at door jambs or heavy cabinetry edges
  • In some cases, partial disassembly to replace a problematic underlayment section
A common misconception is that you can “tighten” a floating floor. Floating systems need room to move; reducing movement the wrong way can increase noise.

Option D: Powdered lubricants (temporary and limited)

Graphite or talc-like products can reduce friction between boards, but:
  • They don’t fix subfloor movement.
  • They can migrate, discolor, or collect dirt.
  • Results vary and are often temporary.
Use these only as a short-term measure and only after confirming the squeak is board-to-board friction (not structural movement).

What to avoid

  • Over-wetting the floor to “swell it shut.” This can cause cupping, finish damage, or mold risk.
  • Random screws through the surface without locating joists or understanding the floor assembly.
  • Injecting adhesives blindly—it can create hard spots, bonding failures, or messy squeeze-out.
A good inspection aims to solve the cause, not just quiet the symptom.

When to Schedule a Hardwood Floor Inspection (and What a Pro Looks For)

Squeaks are often just a comfort issue—but sometimes they’re the first clue of a bigger problem. Consider a professional inspection if any of the following apply:

You should get an inspection if:

  • Squeaks suddenly spread across a room
  • You also notice soft spots, bounce, or visible movement
  • The noise is near a bathroom, laundry, dishwasher, or exterior door (possible moisture source)
  • You see gaps widening, edge lift, or minor cupping alongside squeaks
  • You’re preparing for sale, remodel, or refinishing and want documentation of conditions

What a flooring inspector typically evaluates

A thorough hardwood floor inspection is not just “walking around and listening.” It often includes:
  • Moisture measurements: Using calibrated wood and/or subfloor moisture meters to check if conditions are within expected ranges.
  • Environmental readings: Indoor temperature and RH, and how they compare to what wood flooring typically tolerates.
  • Floor flatness and deflection clues: Identifying whether framing/subfloor movement is contributing.
  • Installation factors: Fastener type and spacing (where visible), expansion gaps, transition detailing, underlayment type, and adhesive method (for glue-down).
  • Pattern analysis: Whether squeaks align with joist layout, panel seams, high-traffic zones, or previous repair areas.
In Los Angeles, inspectors also frequently see mixed construction: older raised-foundation homes with plank subfloors, mid-century slab homes with glue-down engineered products, and remodels where layers of flooring were added over time. The repair recommendation changes depending on that assembly.

What you should receive

A professional report should clearly state:
  • Likely causes (with supporting observations)
  • Contributing conditions (humidity, substrate, transitions, etc.)
  • Practical repair pathways (spot repair vs. partial removal vs. subfloor work)
  • Any conditions that warrant further evaluation (plumbing leak checks, crawlspace moisture control, structural review)

Preventing Squeaks from Returning

Even an excellent repair can be temporary if underlying conditions persist. A few prevention strategies help keep floors quiet long-term:
  • Maintain stable indoor RH: Consistency matters more than a perfect number. Sudden swings increase movement.
  • Use correct cleaning methods: Damp—not wet—mopping, and avoid leaving water standing on the surface.
  • Address crawlspace conditions (raised foundations): Ventilation, vapor barriers, and moisture control reduce seasonal movement.
  • Protect high-traffic areas: Runners and felt pads reduce impact stress that can loosen fasteners over time.
  • Treat transitions carefully: When remodeling, ensure transitions aren’t pinching the floor and that expansion space remains.
If your squeaks are paired with visible movement or moisture concerns, prevention starts with a proper diagnosis.

Need help pinpointing the cause?

If hardwood floor squeaking is disrupting your home and you want a clear, defensible answer—not guesswork—a professional flooring inspection can identify whether the issue is board movement, subfloor/framing deflection, fastener loosening, environmental changes, or a combination. That clarity is what makes the fix last, especially in complex builds and remodel-heavy markets like Los Angeles.